A Beef History of School Recess

Grub

A Beef History of School Recess

Illustration: Akshita Monga

I

grew up in the Madras of the ’90s, among a group of three perpetually hungry friends. The best thing that our school canteen had to offer were tiny onion samosas and old, rubbery chicken biryani. This would lead us straight outside the school gates to the ice-cream anna who sold orange-flavoured crushed ice. For three rupees, you could suck the cool, liquid deliciousness straight out of the plastic pack. There was also the anna who sold us chilli-powdered mangoes. We weren’t allowed to eat either of those forbidden snacks, but they were nothing short of relief during our amber-tinged Madras afternoons.

These began to feel like petty crimes, once the Kerala beef stall opened in our school.

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